The Taylor Highway- A Journey to Alaska

As we make the turn at Tetlin Junction my husband Ray and I always make a bet:
How many cars will we see on the road?


From Tetlin junction to Chicken it is about 66 miles. In the early spring and late fall, when the border is closed, we can go a couple of days without seeing another car on the highway. During the summer months, we can see as many as 20 on the drive to our place. It’s a long, beautiful drive, but the road can be rough to say the least. We’re surprised by how many people head this way unprepared for the trip.


I reached out to MobileRVing, and they graciously allowed me to do a series of guest posts about our experience having a cabin out in the 40-Mile region of Alaska. My husband and I want to share what we learned about the area and help people coming north enjoy the region to its fullest. For my first post, since this is the time of year that most people are heading this way or making plans to head this way, I thought I would do a quick post on the highway itself, including:

• Road Conditions

• Border Crossing

• Best places to stop

• Amenities in Chicken

Road Conditions

The Taylor Highway is 160 miles total in length from Tetlin Junction to Eagle. At Mile 95.5, you reach Jack Wade Junction, the beginning of the Top of the World Highway. From this junction, it is 79 miles to Dawson City (mostly paved). From Tetlin junction to Chicken (66 miles), it is gravel with chip seal in places. The shoulders and turns can be soft, particularly after it rains.

Tire Killer

The Taylor highway is a notorious tire killer. The Dalton Highway is probably number #1 for destroying tires in Alaska, but the Taylor is a close second (if you’re going to travel the Dalton, take a couple of spares). We always carry a good spare, along with a tire repair kit and a can of fix-a-flat. If you are renting a vehicle or travelling in your own car, make sure your spare is a real, full-sized spare before you begin. It can be slow-going on a full tire at times, limping along on a donut is brutal (trust me we had to do it when a family member rented a mini van and got a flat on the way to Jack Wade). The Gold Panner in Chicken has the equipment to do basic tire repair—but it is a do-it-yourself operation thanks to insurance requirements and liability. But if you have dented or busted your rim, it’s a long expensive tow back to Tok. There is a Napa Auto parts in Tok that can expedite parts out to Chicken, but you may be stuck for a couple of days. My advice, have a good spare.

Border Crossing

Times that the border is open:
This is one that we have seen catch a lot of tourists by surprise (even though there is a big sign at Tetlin Junction warning them that the border is closed). There are still tourists that will not see the sign and make it to Chicken. We’ve literally seen people yell at the bartender in the Saloon because the border is closed and they now have to drive all the way back and go the long way around—don’t shoot the messenger!
The Border typically is open by Memorial Day weekend from 8am to 8pm. The date of opening is dependent upon ice conditions on the Yukon (it can open earlier or later depending on conditions). The border typically closes in September, not long after Labor Day. If you are planning to travel to Dawson, check the border openings before leaving Tok.

What you can/cannot bring across the border

A passport is necessary to cross at the Canadian/US border, but many people would be surprised at some of the things that you cannot bring across the border. Some things like firearms are obvious, but the biggest one that catches tourists by surprise is fresh produce. You cannot cross the border from the US into Canada with fresh produce. It will be confiscated. Eat it before you get there. It’s a nice long drive, stop and have a picnic along the way.

Taking the Ferry across the Yukon to Dawson

The George Black Ferry crosses the Yukon 24 hours a day and is free. It is a small ferry, and can be a long wait. Fuel trucks have priority, and ride across alone. Small vehicles and motorcycles get top priority with tour buses and RV’s last. If travelling in any vehicle, be prepared for a wait at the crossing. We always advise people in RV’s to get there early. There’s a great campground next to the crossing with a quick walk down the river to a very unique and little known-gold rush-era attraction, the Sternwheel Graveyard. We recommend crossing the border in the afternoon and getting to this campground, enjoying an evening exploring the graveyard, then getting in line for the ferry first thing in the morning.

Best Places to Stop

The Milepost (link at beginning of post) is a great resource for anyone travelling by RV or car through Alaska. If you are planning a road trip from the lower 48 or Canada, I highly recommend purchasing a copy. Their maps and information are priceless. They give great information about places to stop along the highway, but I am going to give you our take, focusing on just the road between Tetlin and Chicken for this post. There are many pullouts along the road, and it is perfectly legal to stop and camp for the night as long as:

• You are completely out of the roadway

• It is not marked as private property

There are some wonderful stops along the Taylor Highway for taking photos and just having a picnic. My husband has literally done a whole post on the geology and rock collecting that can be done along the highway, not to mention the obvious gold mining and panning in the region. But I am going to mention two of our favorite stops for taking a break.

Mt Fairplay Wayside

The views from Mt. Fairplay are spectacular. This is a great stop along the highway to take pictures of the region’s sweeping scenery. There is an outhouse at the wayside. Located at mile 35, this stop is also at approximately 3500’, which makes it prone to ice and snow particularly in the shoulder seasons. If you are travelling in the spring (April, May and early June) or fall (late August, September, October) check conditions before leaving Tok.

While the whole highway is a place for wildlife, keep an eye out for caribou along Mt. Fairplay. The steep hillsides allow for the 40-Mile herd to come right up out of nowhere onto the highway-and in front of your vehicle. We’ve also seen lynx and wolverine in this area as well.

West Fork BLM Campground

This campground is really clean and in good condition. It has pit toilets and trash bins, but is otherwise dry camping. During hunting season and peak times (Solstice-Dust2Dawson Weekend, Chicken Stock Festival) this campground fills up fast. NO reservations, first come, first served.

Amenities in Chicken

There are 3 principal businesses in Chicken:

• The Gold Panner

The Gold Panner RV Park offers RV hook-ups, dry cabins/hotel rooms, gas and diesel, free potable water (bring you own containers), flush toilets, and showers. They have a unique gift shop and offer tours of the “Old” Ghost Town of Chicken, and Tisha’s School House

• Chicken Gold Camp

The Chicken Gold Camp RV Park offers RV hook up and dry camping, has a café with beer, wine, sandwiches and pizza (they ask that you reserve your pizza early in the day—they go fast), and a giftshop. They also host the famous Chickenstock Music Festival in early June.

• The Chicken Creek Saloon, Café and Gift Shop

The Chicken Creek Saloon, Café and Gift shop offers gas, a full bar with to-go alcohol options, and cigarette sales. They also offer dry camping. They have really good burgers and homemade baked goods. Some people get a bit of sticker shock from the prices, but keep in mind how long it took you to get to this point, it takes them that long to get all this stuff out there and keep it stocked.

All three of these businesses typically begin to open their doors by mid-May, fully staffed by June. After Labor Day and they typically start to close down. Once the border closes, most shutdown for the season.

Thanks for reading! For my next post, I plan on writing more about things to do in the region, like the various events and festivals, hikes and tours and a little bit of history.




About the Author: I joined the Navy at 18 to escape a small town in the Mojave Desert. Through many twists and turns I made my way north to Alaska. I came for a job, but I stayed for the adventure. I enjoy hanging out at my off-grid cabin in Chicken, AK writing about my unique adventures. My first self-published Alaska novella, The Dark Land, is available on Amazon.

About The Dark Land: The Legend of the Headless Ravine is steeped in blood. Its hunger for human flesh never sleeps even in the deepest cold of winter. Courage, skill and Love will be put to the test in the isolated trails of The Dark Land.


***At the time of this post the Taylor highway was almost open, however there were reports of a wash-out at milepost 54 due to a ice-dam in a culvert. Check road conditions before travelling north to Chicken or Eagle.